Духи от Ланком - Аромат Poeme от Lancome: цветочный парфюм ланком. Духи poeme ланком
Poeme, Lancome - Ароматы - Парфюмедия
Оценка: 4,6944444444444
СтойкостьШлейфовостьОценка: 4,5833333333333
СложностьОценка: 4,5142857142857
Poeme Lancome — это аромат для женщин, принадлежит к группе ароматов цветочные. Poeme выпущен в 1995. Парфюмер: Jacques Cavallier. Верхние ноты: черная смородина, гималайский мак, слива, зеленые ноты, мандарин, Нарцисс, Персик, бергамот и дурман; ноты сердца: мимоза, кожа, флердоранж, Фрезия, жасмин, Гелиотроп, иланг, цветок ванили, тубероза и роза; ноты базы: амбра, мускус, Тонка бобы, ваниль, Апельсиновый цвет и кедр.Poeme — это песнь любви и стихам от Lancome. Лирический аромат создан для прирожденных романтиков. Вопреки традиционному подходу к созданию композиции, парфюмер Жак Кавалье (Jacques Cavallier) создал Poeme, скомбинировав ноты гималайского голубого мака с травой, известной в народе под названием «дурман». Этот аккорд в сочетании с букетом богатых цветов придает парфюму необычный, переменчивый характер. Яркая, праздничная упаковка выполнена в голубом и канареечном желтом цветах и украшена стихами поэта Поля Элюара (Paul Eluard).
***Верхние ноты: черная смородина, гималайский мaк, слива, зелёные ноты, мандарин, нарцисс, персик, бергамот, дурманСредние ноты: мимоза, кожа, апельсиновый цвет, фрезия, жасмин, гелиотроп, иланг-иланг, цветок ванили, тубероза, розаБазовые ноты: бобы тонка, амбра, мускус, ваниль, апельсиновый цвет, кедр
www.laparfumerie.org
Poeme Lancome perfume - a fragrance for women 1995
Blissfully deep sigh of being in olfactory nirvana, here... 'Poeme', not only a beautiful and apt name for a fragrance ('Lollipop Bling Bling' anyone?) but a gorgeous, opulent, creamy, rich shining 24 carat diamond of fragrance. If gold, jade and pearls could have a smell, 'Poème' would be it. Old school? Perhaps. Timeless classic: for sure! A fragrance like a classy discreet beautiful woman. A little mysterious, renders people spellbound and radiates that 'je ne sais quoi' soft almost careless and effortless sensuality of a a gorgeous 'woman's woman'. A 'femme'. This is a bewitching caress of utter floral fragrance beauty. Totally stunning, totally convincing, totally out-of-this-mediocre-world. Heavenly romance, and butterflies-in-the-stomach beauty in a bottle. Not sex, not sugar, not spices, not lollipop, not bling bling, not the smell of perfume-analphabetic money hunting shareholders, not a celeb image in a bottle. But alas: beauty, bliss, knockout ravishing joy in a bottle. 'Yes, I do for now and forever after'-feeling in a fragrance bottle. Smashingly shamelessly romantic, utterly feminine, soft yet strong, an undisturbable quiet zen-like presence and feel of a fragrance. Bliss, heavenly bliss, exquisite totally original delight. Nose candy for floral and other real original deep-fragrance lovers. This is a delightful complex wonder of a fragrance. Seductive, womanly, poetic. And a high quality fragrance to boot. Super long lasting, extra strength sillage, consonance and balance... It is a love poem and a song of joy and and ode to perfume artistry and mastery filled to the brim with a collection of the most beautiful flowers, the most classic-strong of bases, just enough fruit and in its heart and soul wearable contrasting notes that blend in seamlessly in the whole poetic picture of 'Poème'. Put every one of the current celeb fruity florals against this real 'fruity floral with a twist' and you'll understand why I often express my frustration with current aquatic run-of-the-mill generic fruity florals. 'Poème' is for me the one and only benchmark for 'fruity florals' from 1995 -the year of its launch- on. Period. Smell this one. This is the fragrance magic a true fruity floral with high class ingredients, made by and expert maitre parfumier and balanced and mixed to perfection, can be. Sheer beauty. This is one of the mothers of all fruity florals. In personality, quality, strength and creativity. I guess you'll need at least 4 bottles of 100 ml edp of a current celeb 'fruity floral' to match the sillage and longevity of one 30 ml edp of 'Poème'. This is a flower lovers nirvana, an olmfactory orgasm, an ode to the beauty of nature's blooming treasures, not some collection of cheap artifical flower extracts made in China, no offense intended, thrown together with only dollar signs blinking in the eyes of the PR-fragrance company men. I'm not a real flower fragrance lover, but I recognise an exceptionally great and strong and original masterpiece fragrance when I sniff one. 'Poème' is one of these rare creatures.
Enough waxing poetically about this classic. Some facts. 'Poeme' was launchded in 1995 and still going very stroooong. So it stood the test of time, another criterium in comparing it to fleeting (literaly and figuratively speaking) celeb fruity florals which have an average lifespan of 1 to 5 years. And then they are gone and mostly rightfully forgotten. 'Poème' was launched by the famous house of Lancôme ('Climat','Hypnose', 'Magie Noire', 'Magnifique'... ) and was conceived by none other than the great legendary nose Jacques Cavallier (Boucherons's 'Initial' and 'Trouble', many Bulgari's, Kleins 'Truth', Diors 'Midnight Poison', some Armani's, countless Issey Miyakes's, a Carolina Herrera, a lot of Gaultiers, Ricci's, Rabanne's...) A top nose quoi! Together with Annick Menardo and Francis Kurkdjian: the best of current the maitres parfumeurs. The golden crop. 'Poème' is built around flowers AND contrasts. And it is one of the most technically complicated tours de force in recent perfume history. Those notes: Jesus Christ in heaven! And all fused seamlessly together, contrasts included, into one hell of a fantastic fragrance. Faut-le-faire!
Top: Blackcurrant, Himalayan poppy (!), plum, green notes, mandarin, narcissus, peach, bergamot, datura (!)Middle: Mimose, leather (!), ylang ylang, freesia, jasmine, heliotrope, vanilla, orange blossom tuberose, rose, Top: Tonka bean, amber, musk, vanilla, cedar, orange blossom(!)
What a grand, opulent, rich collection of notes. And the genius of Cavallier was to forge all these notes (24) seamlessly together into a creamy, rounded, harmonius killer of a floral fragrance while building in some remarkable inner contrasts that don't disturb the bliss, the joy and the sheer olfactory pleasure that this poem and ode to the art of perfumery spreads around you by the buckload. Be prepared if you wear this to be noticed, to tell countless times what you wear and to be called 'old lady' by pimply pre-menstrual girls with padded bras and a thong whale tale above their waistline jeans who love the celeb bling bling fragrances. But if you wear this powerful masterpiece, you righlty won't give a hooters! Take your celeb scent and run to go buy the next Justin Biever frag. Or I'll spray you with 'Poème' so that you smell classy for once. I mean: this is for 'women' aged 15 to 95 and not for narrow minded 'girls' of the same age, if you catch my drift.
All starts with the base. As with all great fragrances: a strong, sturdy, reliable base where the middle and top can be reliably built upon. BTW, that's why all those current fruity florals and most ohter contemporary fragrances last so shortly and radiate so little IMHO: the base is mostly a three note breezy low quality artificial sandalwood-vanilla-something. Here you have a cemented lean, mean, clean strong linebacker unit of tonka bean -which deepens and anchors middle and top to a T (the stongest bases have tonka bean in it)-, amber, cedar, vanilla, musk. Together they make a hell of a strong, effective base. But nose Cavallier adds -suprise, surprise!- the delicate and pleasant orange blossom to the base. Read again: orange blossom in the base! Think about it. That is always the sign of a great fragrance: some strokes of genius. Like the coconut and allspice in the top of 'Hypnotic Poison' by Menardo or the amaretto in the top and dark chocolate in the base of Cartier's 'Le Baiser du Dragon' by Alberto Morillas. Soit. Here the orange blossom in the base translates into a delicate constant presence of the lovely delicate orange blossom in the whole of 'Poème'. Like 'Rose' in Lutens 'Sa Majesté la Rose' or 'Vanilla' in Bulgari's 'Black'. Especially since there is another dose of orange blossom in the middle level. So very strong base with a twist: orange blossom!
The middle is an all star team of the most beautiful, powerful flower scents: mimose, freesia, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose and rose weighted against each other with a pharmacist's scale so that they won't cannibalise each other. Cavallier puts as a guardian and enforcer to keep the power flowers from fighting each other to death or oblivion or from neutralising each other, the harmonious diplomat heliotrope next to it, which acts as KY jelly to let those passionate flowers make love to each other smoothly. Result: fireworks all over the middle and the rest of Poéme but without trashing the bed on which they make love. The heliotrope is the Ban Ki Moon to keep those flowers-with-a-big ego from clashing in an all out 'cat fight' flower war. And of course here comes another stroke of Cavallier genius: in all this flowery 'female' notes of love and peace with nevertheless an undercurrent of merciless competition between these strong 'female' flowers, he introduces the 'steadying' male fragrance note: 'leather'! Like putting one male in a room of competing female workers or putting one woman in a room of testosteron-overloaded male office PC tigers. It brings a certain agreeable tension but also a balanced harmony and stability between the yin and the yang of this fragrance's middle that would be fickle without the contrasting but stabilising leather, if you know what I mean. Just great! Perfect, rich, creamy, über flowery middle with a twist: leather!
Up to the top, the first impression a fragrance gives, a calling card, the first look at your blind date. The top is on paper deeply fruity-floral. Blackcurrant, peach, plum, mandarin, narcissus and green notes plus bergamot to give it an effervecent freshness. So far, so good and very classy. Two or three of these notes are mostly used in a lot of celeb fruity florals. But of course this is two levels higher. Nose Cavallier adds two genius twists that deepens this top and makes it frankly fascinating. First Cavallier adds datura. 'Datura' is an 'oriental' flower which belongs to the botanical mythical 'nightshade' family of which many other members are known for their hallucinogetic, mind bending effects because of the presence of alkaloids of which the concetrated form is used in morphine and codeine but also in cocaine. In natural form alkaloids are found in mescaline. And in datura. Crushed datura was used by sjamans to help whip up trances and hallucinogetic trips. But the alkaloid-free datura fragrance note smells strongly herbal and deep dark chocolat-y. Serge Lutens built one of his most revered and wearable frags around this rich, unique and fascinating flower: 'Datura Noir'. Of course the deep datura is a perfect twist-in-the-top and a great contrast with the other fruity flower top notes. And to top it off: the second twist in the top, the cincher. Cavallier adds yet another highly unusual note: Himalayan poppy. Of course poppies are the base material to produce opium which is then processed into heroin. The smell of 'Himalayan poppy' of which all possible addictive material is of course removed, is indolic! Yes: Cavallier places an indolic (some call that 'animalistic') note next to his very clean blackcurrant, peach, plum, narcissus, mandarin, bergamot. I wish all celeb fruity florals would do that! But these are for young girls and 'Poème' is for real women. So that is too risqué and grown up an too expensive, I guess. But the indolic poppy and deep herbal datura give a 'dirty' deepness and contrast and depth to ab otherwise squeaky clean fruity floral top that in most FF's is just a run of the mill three note raspberry-peach-strawberry combo. Be assured: that poppy fragrance note isn't addicive in a physical way (don't start injecting 'Poème' to get a high) but it is highly addictive in an olfactory way. Sniff 'Poème' to bring you into perfume heaven. To get you olfactory high. Very surprising top with a twist: clean, effervescent and fresh notes with an indolic, 'dirty' note and a deep herbal/'cacao' smelling note. A top with two twists: datura and Himalayan poppy!
So we have a great twists in all seperate levels. But 'Poème' is about general bliss and beauty with inbuilt harmonic, not clashing, contrasts. I have named three. But on and in each level there are more. I won't name them all. But in the flowery middle: the flowers are very well chosen: peppery jasmine versus rich tuberose versus tropical ylang ylang... In the top the sour-y blackcurrant versus sweet peach, the meaty plum versus the fresh bergamot... And we then have above it all the contrasts between the whole levels itself: sturdy base with flirtatious orange blossom versus female flowery middle with a male leather magnet in the middle versus floral fruity top with indolic poppy and herbal/cacao datura. The result is a really rich, intoxicating juggernaut of a fragrance. Both in complexity, strength and the sheer perfume artistry and craftmanship to pull this off.It really smells like a poem, written by addicted French 'poète maudit' Charles Baudelaire, or it looks like a painting by the equally French 'peintre maudit' and addict of the hallucigenetic anisic drink absinthe Toulouse-Lautrec. 'Poème' has the reputation of being a dense, albeit complex flowery fragrance without much deepness. But there is so much more to 'Poème'! It is a peculiar perfume masterpiece-with-a-story. Mad scientist-parfumeur Cavallier smuggles leather, poppies, datura, an indolic note... into a so called 'classic' rich very 'French' floral. Devillishly clever and an unexpected hit for Lancôme. Like a devil's pact. So think again about the 'mainstream floral' 'Poème'. The old lady has some surprisingly daringly dirty tricks up her sleeve! And more importantly: sniff a tester vial of this olfactory poem again. You will by truly stunned! And hallucinate being in perfume heaven. Probably you really will be...
Mar192012
www.fragrantica.com
Аромат Poeme от Lancome - Цветочный парфюм Ланком
Косметика: аромат poeme от lancome
Духи от Ланком, цветочный парфюм ланкомЛегкий аромат Poeme от Lancome свойственен современной женщине, которая умело сочетает амурные дела и напряженный день работающей дамы. Данный аромат относится к дневной гамме и отлично подходит для ежедневного использования. Poeme подходит в абсолютно любой ситуации, так как может и подчеркнуть элегантность, и сделать акцент на животной страсти и магнетизме, и придать образу налет девичьей нежной влюбленности. Аромат Poeme by Lancome был создан специально для впечатлительных, романтичных и нежных натур, он радует женское сердце и напоминает о минутах нежных поцелуев и жарких объятий.
Впервые Poeme появился на свет еще в 1995 году, поэтому за прошедшие годы он уже успел стать классикой жанра. Данный аромат был создан знаменитым парфюмером Jacques Cavallier, что свидетельствует о его высочайшем качестве и многогранном запахе. Флакон был эксклюзивно разработан дизайнером Fabien Baron, который смог воплотить саму идею этого аромата в оригинальном флаконе и красочной упаковке. Бутылочка выполнена в форме женских плечиков, а венчает их золотистая крышечка. Название парфюмированной воды подчеркивается тем, что упаковка украшена отрывком из красивого стиха поэта Paul Eluard.
Ноты аромата
Цветочный аромат Poeme от Lancome немного напоминает мотивы Востока, но в целом вполне соответствует европейскому преставлению о любовном и привлекательном аромате. Начальная нота аромата состоит из оттенков нежного персика, свежего мандарина, благоухающего бергамота и яркого запаха черной смородины.
Нота сердца представлена запахами нежной розы, фрезии, чарующей мимозы и флердоранжа, но основную ноту задает аромат гималайского голубого мака, который дополняется дурманом. Именно дурман и оказывает гипнотизирующее действие, так как противиться его сладкому и такому приятному аромату практически невозможно.
Базовая нота создается благодаря удивительному сочетанию ароматов амбры, бобов тонка, ванили и мускуса.
Все эти ароматы создают переменчивый, но приятный аромат. Меняется даже не сам запах, а наше восприятие, которое напрямую зависит от нашего настроения. С другой стороны именно аромат Poeme от Lancome будет настраивать женщин на романтические подвиги, и придавать чувство самоуверенности и сексуальности.
Некоторые отмечают, что запах Poeme от Lancome несколько похож на запах Oscar. В некотором смысле это действительно так, но аромат Poeme является гораздо боле глубоким и богатым. Это действительно романтический аромат, но это запах не платонической любви и нежных чувств, а истинной любви и страсти.
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