Oud Immortel Byredo for women and men. So oud духи
SoOud - Парфюмерные дома - Парфюмедия
Новый французский бренд SoOud (СоУд) был основан известным и талантливым парфюмером Стефаном Хамбертом Лукасом. Известность к этому мастеру пришла, когда он творил, работая в торговом доме Nez a Nez. Там он трудился в должности главного парфюмера, поэтому большинство ароматов этого бренда – его детища. Стефан Хамберт Лукас обладает невероятным даром. Он способен определять состав духов лишь по запаху. Это умение удивляет и поражает даже самых бывалых знатоков парфюмерии. Лукас создает свои ароматы безо всяких формул и длительных расчетов, единственным его верным прибором является нос, который сделал его легендой современного парфюмерного общества. Название своего торгового дома SoOud Лукас позаимствовал из наречия арабской династии Аль-Азиз, правившей на полуострове Аравии в 18-м веке. Также может показаться, что бренд назван в честь драгоценного удового дерева, ставшего популярным и востребованным ингредиентом многих нишевых духов. Духи Соуд направлены на украшение и придание особого стиля своего обладателя. Каждый аромат, а их в коллекции SoOud уже восемь, является шедевром в своем роде. Автор вложил любовь и нежность в каждый аромат SoOud. Он стремился сделать такие ароматы, которые изменят мировоззрение своего обладателя, хотя бы на то время, пока звучит аромат. Ароматы SoOud производятся в сотрудничестве с крупным парфюмерным Домом Intertrade Europe, что гарантирует их бескомпромиссное качество и натуральный состав.
www.laparfumerie.org
Musk Oud By Kilian perfume
Note: Fragrantica lists artemisia in the mid notes, but Kilian themselves indicate davana, which smells more like wine/grapes, and not at all like the "traditional" artemisia, which is wormwood. Davana does come from a species of artemisia (but not the same species as wormwood) and I think that causes the mix up (Fragrantica often lists davana as artemisia), but they are not the same thing!
One more thing to note: Kilian himself has mentioned on twitter and elsewhere that this scent contains a fair dose of both civettone (civet) and muscenone and muscone. Just an FYI for those who pick up animalic and or fecal notes in this, that is why!
Onto the review!
Well... this is definitely one of those times when you sample something with knowledge of the general consensus, and afterwards are left raising your eyebrows in bewilderment of said consensus.
I find this to be absolutely gorgeous from top to bottom, which is saying a lot as I've never fallen for a Kilian scent before and find some from the house to be downright poor.
The top of Musk Oud is a very alive, very rich citrus that is immediately flanked by the rose and grape and wine nuances from the davana. The cardamom is present too, and smooth, and this alongside the never forward and yet quite long lasting coriander seed note work as a wonderful spice offset. In color and hue, this is quite akin to the opening of XXV - dark berries and coriander/bay/clove in XXV, grape/dark berries/coriander in MO, and both share rose, as well. Their weight and feel are drastically different though, with MO being light on its feet, a dark and diaphonous silken purple scarf with golden orange flecks, while XXV is more heavier and regal both out of the gate and throughout its development. All of that being said, this is seriously one of the most amazing openings that I've ever smelled. I compared it to the openings of some similar scents: XXV, Harrods oud Patchouli, and even Fate Man (not that similar) and it makes them seem clunky and pedestrian in comparison. Its balance is perfect and all of the notes are alive; nothing flat or out of place.
Unlike most, I find this scent neither simple, linear, or weak in projection or longevity. An hour in and the heart becomes a deeper rose/geranium, and just as the coriander fades out, a subtle lemony frankincense note starts to rise up in the background. Perfect linkage of two notes throughout the evolution of the frag. The oud is slightly smoky, and the musk is becoming more dominant. Yes, it's an animalic musk, of the animal hair variety. The rum and davana are still present and the oud deepens this accord, adding to the purple hues shades of black.
This accord of rose, davana and rum, and smoky incense and oud slowly crescendos and then decrescendos into the deep base, joined by a subtle patchouli and just the faintest whisps of airy vanilla (likely, actually, hints of some sweet musk).
Deep but never heavy or overly dense, with the impeccable balance of Kilian's Incense Oud but striking out in a much bolder direction (my one criticism of IO and what leads it to not being FBW imo is how safe it plays it in all regards).
In some ways, it calls to mind an oudy take on Ungaro II. Musk Oud is not exactly fecal but it is feral, and the deep purple hues alongside the orange/golden notes, coupled with some similarity in the patchouli/vanilla of the bases and the seamless transitions really does put it in the UII category, in my mind at least.
I have a feeling that some people who've reviewed it are anosmic to the musks, or are suffering olfactory fatigue (eg: Kafkaesque's review mentions picking up the animalic hair note briefly, and then it vanishing for the rest of the scent), and this will change their perception of the scent drastically. Just two sprays on my chest are projecting strong many hours later, and the few swipes I put on my arm about 16 hours ago - with a shower in between - can still be smelled if sniffed close. Subtle patchouli and frankincense smoke.
Gorgeous stuff.
Aug032013
www.fragrantica.com
Oud Immortel Byredo perfume - a fragrance for women and men 2010
This is my first impression:
Never heard of this brand before but seen it today in a shop next to the Bond No 9 line. I smelled several of the Byredo perfumes and found several which are pretty interesting. One of the most interesting ones was Oud Immortel, so I tried it on my skin.. Smelled quite a while and liked it, liked the strong patchouli accord, the incensy and balmy facets. But I smelled something fruity as well which I found very familiar but wasn´t able to tell why. So I asked the sales assistent to show me the perfumes pyramide and thought it must be the limoncello.I was talking quite a while to the SA, waiting for the further development of the scent. I couldn´t resist and I finally bought it (although I usually don´t do so, because I´m quite picky with perfumes).
And it was a mistake not to wait and come back later.
Only 15 minutes after I left the shop the smell changed and this fruity accord stepped out while the balmy patchouli and incense started to disappear. I was then able to tell from where I have known this accord. To my nose it was almost exact the same fruity berry accord I smelled in Black XS by Paco Rabanne. And if you may have read my review for this perfume you have read that I wouldn´t want to come back to this scent again. After 3 hours on my skin and to my nose it´s almost only Black XS (the opening with the berry accord many seemed to smelled but never shown on any perfume pyramid).And this sucks, because if I wanted to smell like black XS again I may have picked the Paco Rabanne edt for less than half of the price of this one. This perfume is another big reminder not to buy perfumes without giving a few days time to test them. I spend about one and a half hour in the Shop so I didn´t expect the scent to change dramatically. But I was proven wrong. Again.It is kind of insane that the usually most persistent notes, patchouli, oakmoss, oud, papyrus (or isn´t it cypriol?) disappear so fast and the fruity accord, the one that I dislike as soon as it begins to dominate the scene and the one that usually should be gone soon after the alcohol is evaporated, is the one that stays on my skin for hours...By the way, I really don´t get a strong limoncello liqueur note. It´s the same synthetic berry mix I get with Black XS.
At this moment I am not sure, if I should ask the SA to take it back and give me some Serge Lutens instead (packaging is still unopened) or if I should give it some tries on other days, hoping to experience a different drydown.
I will edit and let you know, if I will wear it again.
P.S. The packaging tells it is made in France, while the designer profile here on fragrantica tells their perfumes are produced in Sweden?P.P.S. Longevity is very very good. A pity it isn´t the opening that lasts, but teh berry/rosewood mix I already started to dislike when my Paco Rabanne wasn´t even empty. :(
Edit 1:I could resist and opened the box. I´ve worn it a few days now and to my delight I did not get this strong similarity to Black XS again. I still get a fruity note till the final act of the drydown, that I just can´t name (and it´s not a lemoncello liqueur), but it appears different than on my first experience. That´s about the good thing.The bad thing is, the first time I tried it (in the shop) I had a very balmy, incensy, smokey opening heavy on patchouli and oud, but I don´t get this lovely opening either. It´s still nice, don´t get me wrong, but not as nice as my first date I had with this little flask. Apropos little flask. They only had the 100 ml bottles in the shop, frarantica told me that 50ml versions do exist, while in the shop they told me they do not.. So I got a big bottle of this. But it seems that I finally may like it yet.
On the homepage of Byredo 'oud' does not appear in the perfumes pyramid. I did not expect real oud, but some 'oud chemicals' to substitute the expensive oil. But may be they did not and created the oud theme in a different way. I´ve read in a comment of a German perfume encyclopedia something about 'oud berries' used in this one. But I haven´t heard about oud berries till then (as far as I can remember, maybe I´m just getting old). May it be these mysterious 'oud berries' that create this persistent fruitiness I smell but can´t name? Who knows, who knows.. As long as this 'Black XS accord' doesn´t show up again I´m okay with strange oud berries. ^^
Edit2:I have used it quite a few times now and thank the gods, I never had this Black XS vibe again. Instead I really learned to like this juice and now can detect the lemoncello in the fruity accord. But still I´d prefere this fruity accord to be less persistent and the patchouly/wood accord to be longerlasting and more dominant.All in all a good perfume. But only time will tell if I´ll get another bottle if mine is empty one day.
Jan182014
www.fragrantica.com
