Niche Perfumery 03/28/18 12:18 The Italian brand Homoelegans is preparing the launch of two new editions next week, for Milan's show Esxence. The new fragrances continue to explore themes from arts and culture, with an eye on subversion. Every new scent by Homoelegans brings an unexpected experience and we are excited to smell the new ones: Song for a Rising Sun and Ivre de Vie. Song for a Rising Sun is evocative of the colorful experience of 1967's The Summer of Love, or the Woodstock concert. So you can expect a li... (more) Homoelegans' look at free love and the passion of Edith Piaf in order to deliver us two new fragrances next week. Scented Home & Garden 03/28/18 10:55 Home scenting has lots to recommend it. If home is our abode and refuge, then accompanying it with a pleasant scent equates a personal sense of zen. Most people using home scent do so to refresh a room: deodorize smoke from cigarettes or staleness; drive away the miasma of fried oil cooking; re-invigorate the air with new stimuli instead of the same emissions its inhabitants produce daily. But there are some of us who actually use home scents - and sprays in particular - thanks to their inst... (more) L'Artisan Parfumeur candles in a new design: Elena reviews Souffle de Jasmin and Sous la Glycine. Art Books Events 03/28/18 09:55 (One comment) Always different, creative and interesting! Intertrade Group presents UNSCENT 15 - 3D PERFUME ANATOMY, a journey towards the three-dimensional discovery of botanical anatomy through visual representations of olfactory perception. The new exhibition takes place in the Excelsior shopping center's AVERY PERFUME GALLERY, Galleria del Corso 4 in Milan, from the 5th through the 7th of April 2018, and focuses on the charm of perfumery - what is real and what's not real, leading us into a 3D di... (more) Intertrade Group presents the 15th UNSCENT exhibition which will offer 3D perfume anatomy in Milan. New Fragrances 03/28/18 08:32 (13 comments) The new interpretation of the 1998 fragrance Romance from the designer house of Ralph Lauren (under L'Oréal) comes out in the spring of 2018 as a limited edition called Romance Rosé. This new flanker is announced as an elegant and sparkling scent that embodies the brightness of spring. Romance Rosé is a floral- fruity composition with a woody-musky drydown. The start is sparkling and fresh thanks to citrus and zesty fruit aromas. The heart includes floral notes such as May rose, j... (more) An elegant and sparkling spring-time flanker. New Fragrances 03/27/18 13:34 (One comment) A new eau de parfum which embodies a link between East and West. New Fragrances 03/27/18 08:17 (2 comments) A new edition in Trussardi's luxurious unisex line inspired by the aromas of the Orient. New Fragrances 03/26/18 12:02 (12 comments) Hermès' Eaux de cologne line has been expanded with the new fragrance Eau de Citron Noir, created by perfumer Christine Nagel. Fragrant Horoscope 03/25/18 08:22 (One comment) As the week progresses you may see the polarity pattern where those liberated feel freer, and those in a rut become more anxious. Ideally we are looking at the other side and just by understanding their motivations, both sides can benefit. www.fragrantica.com Yves Saint Laurent is the French fashion house founded by Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent. The house and designer are often abbreviated as YSL. Laurent's career in fashion began at the tender age of 17, when he served as assistant to Christian Dior. With Dior's death four years later, Laurent was named head of the house of Dior at just 21 years of age. Still a young man when the Algerian War of Independence broke out, Laurent was drafted into the army in 1960 and lost his position at Dior. Military service and despair over the loss of his design position resulted in a hospital stay. After a brief period of recuperation, Laurent started his own fashion company and went on to become one of the most influential fashion designers of the 1960s and 1970s. Laurent became known for his exquisitely-tailored women's suits, and is credited with creating the first women's tuxedo. The first designer to announce his expansion from couture into ready-to-wear, he is credited with making chic ready-to-wear fashions available to the mass market, and for making ready-to-wear a reputable business for designers. Laurent's ready-to-wear line was sold in boutiques named Rive Gauche, which would later be commemorated with a perfume. Yves Saint Laurent remained active as the collection's main designer through the late 1980s. After his retirement, a series of designers including Alber Elbaz, Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati have produced collections for the brand. Yves Saint Laurent passed away in 2008. Cosmetics and perfumes have long been included in the designer's offerings. The house's first fragrance, Y for women, was launched in 1964. Y and several other launches by YSL, including Rive Gauche (1970), Opium (1977), men's scent Kourous (1981), and Paris (1983) have become modern classics of the perfume world and remain best-sellers. The company continues to earn new fans with contemporary releases such as Baby Doll (2000), Elle (2007) and La Nuit de l'Homme (2009). YSL offers fragrances in conjunction with L'Oreal Group. Designer Yves Saint Laurent has 191 perfumes in our fragrance base. The earliest edition was created in 1964 and the newest is from 2018. Yves Saint Laurent fragrances were made in collaboration with perfumers Karine Dubreuil, Jean Amic, Dominique Ropion, Ralf Schwieger, Cecile Matton, Jacques Cavallier, Olivier Cresp, Jean-Claude Ellena, Jean-Francois Latty, Pierre Bourdon, Annick Menardo, Michel Girard, Olivier Pescheux, Anne Flipo, Pierre Wargnye, Olivier Polge, Carlos Benaim, Juliette Karagueuzoglo, Juliette Karagueuzoglou, Calice Becker, Alberto Morillas, Amandine Clerc-Marie, Fabrice Pellegrin, Julie Masse, Ilias Ermenidis, Carlos Benaïm, Hamid Merati-Kashani, Honorine Blanc, Mathilde Bijaoui, Marie Salamagne, Loc Dong, Harry Fremont, Dora Baghriche, Nathalie Lorson, Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Raymond Chaillan, Sophia Grojsman, Laurent Bruyere, Sophie Labbe and Daniela (Roche) Andrier. Y1964 for women Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale for men. Cuirs духи
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Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale cologne
edit: after my first experience, described below, on a bored day I revisited my sample of this fragrance. I sprayed waay less on than I had the first time, and far less than I would of any other fragrance: literally one spray per wrist, one per crook of elbow, four total. It lasted all day and although I still found it kind of sweaty and musky in a way that kept made me think my mom would appear from across the atlantic to retch upon my fragrance choice, it did smell very oriental to me. not oriental in the way the fragrance world uses it, but... middle eastern, I guess? I don't want to be racist; I'm referring more to my imagination of arabian nights or cleopatra in legend and film, things like that.
This did not strike me as a prominently leather scent. The notes surprised me. I felt there were far more spices, like a spice market: cardamom, something sickly sweet, maybe some musky and floral notes. It smells like a very soupy, rich mix. It is an OUD for sure that does not disappoint. Montale did not skimp on their ingredients, and they delivered on their premise. If you like this scent, then it is the real deal, worth it even if they were to charge double: it doesn't change its nature, it isn't sissy, it doesn't cheapen itself. It is VERY bold. You have to have guts to wear it in public. To me it doesn't smell overtly masculine at all. Unisx in the aforementioned arabian-nights way. For a perfume I could not stand after first loving it and then applyiing it and hating it, I'm developing an odd fascination with it. It is not for the faint of heart and it is not remotely forgettable.. Have you ever have somebody become a close friend that you started out having a total hatred for? This fragrance incites passion, opinions, paradox, taking a stand. It's not 'meh', it's nobody's idea of a blind buy christmas present for a meek relative. If you like stuff that will knock your socks off, try this. I congratulate Montale for really putting their heart into it and their money where their mouths are. For once I don't feel like I'm being suckered by a fragrance line.
*original post, from a week ago:
I had located a boutique in my area (bay area--ZGO perfumery) that carried Montale fragrances because I was and am in search of a signature oud to add to my budding collection of fragrances. In the store, this was my favorite Montale oud, and my favorite oud in general. I left with 12 different oud samples, and this was the only Montale among them. On the paper sampler, it was my favorite. I love intense scents, and although I intentionally didnt want to learn the notes in it so I could smell it without pre-conception, blind, now that I read them, those are my four absolute favorite, beloved, notes in a perfume.
So it was with great alarm and sadness that after I sprayed this on my arm (it was one of only two that I decided to test on skin, because they were such favorites out of all the samples I had made up and bought that day), it began to smell AWFUL. The description that it softens as it dries down, despite huge longevity, is accurate. Nothing in the description is inacccurate, but it doesn't capture that this also has notes not listed here that I smell. It smells like very cheap, bad, sophomoric incense that stoners hide the smell of weed with. It smells of literal sweat. It smells like the very worst of orientals and ouds smell--like what gives them a bad name. I do not shy away from fragrances of this type: in fact, I ask, shopkeepers to 'hit me with your most barnyard, provocative, inappropriate fragrance' and so on, just to see. I am not easily disgusted, overwhelmed, or shocked. I am always looking for more sillage, more longevity, more animalic qualitites, more leather, more warmth, more old-world masculine spice market musky type of stuff. Noctural, dark smells that I would wear in the day, to hell with what anyone else may think.
So I was surprised and sad that even when I tried a much smaller amount--four sprays total--of this the next day to wear overnight, it smelled awful on my skin and much milder and more tolerable but still grateful to have it removed by the shower the next morning. The discpreepancy between what it smells like in the bottle, the air, and on paper; and the discrepancy between the pyramid and notes described above vs how it smells on me makes me think that my experience and response to it might be freak synergy of the worst kind with my skin.
I am still looking for an oud that is that strong, that obscene, that spicy, that leathery, that unapologetic, that arabian, that oriental, oud-y, incense-y, woody, smokey, and memorable. It will just have to be a different one than this. This is the only sample of fragrance that I have paid to have made up at a store (out of, by now, dozens and dozens) that I will not be finishing. It is just awful on my skin. Like somebody trying to hide bad B.O. with cheap incense-like body oils they bought at a smoke shop and doused themselves with. Yikes.
Dec052016
